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Diciembre en Chichicastenango: 
Festivales en Abundancia

Al Diablo Con El Diablo
7 de diciembre: La Quema del Diablo
La tradición comenzó como un ritual de purificación para dar paso a la fiesta de la Inmaculada Concepción. La gente limpia sus casas, quema la basura en las calles, le prende fuego a una efigie del diablo con fuegos artificiales y procesionan una estatua de la Virgen María a la Iglesia de Santo Tomás.

Sin Pecado
8 de diciembre: Fiesta de la Inmaculada Concepción
Para celebrar la pureza de la Virgen María, cuya propia concepción se dice que fue libre de pecado original, habrá danzas y licor en la plaza.

Uno de los Mejores Festivales del Mundo
13-21 de diciembre:  Fiesta de Santo Tomás
Chichicastenago está de fiesta con uno de los festivales más grandes y más coloridos en Guatemala.  Cuenta con música, desfiles, bailes y trajes tradicionales que son una reminiscencia, por parte de los mayas, del aspecto de los primeros españoles que llegaron a estas tierras.  El festival está coronado por el evento acrobático tradicional del Palo Volador el día 21. Y, por supuesto, muchos fuegos artificiales.

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I love looking out my window and seeing the volcanoes. It’s such a treat to live in a town with such spectacular natural beauty. So far, I must admit, I’ve only climbed Pacaya. I have a photo of a horse who had kindly helped a weary-legged tourist reach the rough volcanic rock that covers the summit; the horse looks like it’s thinking, “What the hell are we doing up here? Don’t you know this thing’s active?” And, I have to admit that was kind of what I was thinking at the time, but summiting an active volcano is an amazing and unique experience – one that should not be missed while in Guatemala. And, I’m sure Manuela Rosales, La Antigua’s own mountaineer, would agree; turn to page 16 to learn more about her story.
July is a special month for La Antigua. The 25th is Día de Santiago (St. James Day) and in celebration of La Antigua’s patron saint there will be all sorts of festivities, fireworks, and fun this month. One of the big attractions is the fair, which comes to town to help Antigüeños celebrate. Read “Let’s Go to the Fair” on page 24 to learn more about this tradition.
On a personal note, Scott and I would like to dedicate this issue of Qué Pasa to Brenda Beeson, who I always admired for her grace, generosity and kindness. She was a beautiful person and a wonderful addition to our community. Brenda, you will be sorely missed by all those who had the good fortune to be your friend.

Sincerely,

Keri

The post Letter from the Editor July 2011 appeared first on Que Pasa Magazine.

On June 15, 2011, an agreement was signed in La Antigua Guatemala between the city government and the Safe Cities Association to use international best-practice guidelines provided by the Safe City Program*  to provide increased security for visitors to La Antigua.

This program is the direct result of the work of more than 250 participants from La Antigua, with whom a common vision for the colonial city is being developed which specifies making it a real world-class destination where tourists and citizens alike can enjoy a quiet, orderly, safe, and peaceful environment. The vision includes statements relating to the environment, where residents and visitors can enjoy fresh air and the peace of beautiful weather while enjoying outdoor cafes, forests, volcanoes, or rivers.

The program is called Panchoy 50, and describes the way forward for the next 50 years. The key to success is the condition that all sectors, all interested parties, both public and private, join in and contribute to the vision.

One of the key elements in the vision of La Antigua as a world-class cultural destination is safety. Antigüeños, through the efforts of Panchoy 50, understand clearly that security is everyone’s job. Safety is a priority for all public-sector organizations, including the national police, tourist police, municipal police, private security operations, and citizens who are committed to these principles and values and who participate actively toward solutions to security-related problems.

La Antigua Guatemala is working to make this beautiful place into a “Safe Cultural Destination.” This led, in May of this year, to an agreement with the Safer Cities Association which helped the City of La Antigua by providing the knowledge and tools necessary for the certification process to achieve the goal of the Marca Ciudad (City Brand) campaign.

The Safe Cities Association is a nonprofit organization created in late 2010 by a group of entrepreneurs committed to resolving the causes of the issues of poor security and violence in Guatemala. After months of research and development, its objective is to establish a functional system of attention, prevention, and response to public safety through the monitoring and coordination of the different entities involved, in order to restore credibility in public institutions.

During the first stage of the program, the area of focus will be Central Park and 5a. Avenida Norte (Calle del Arco). The initial sponsorship for the prototype closed-circuit TV system will be provided by hotels and other hospitality businesses in La Antigua. The system is expected to be operational by August 2011.

This process facilitates the creation of a fund available for further steps which will enable the creation and certification of the “Safe City Project: La Antigua Guatemala.” Toward these ends: the first survey of Victimization and Perception of Security La Antigua has been made; the City Council of La Antigua Guatemala has authorized the restoration of a video surveillance system with wireless internet in Central Park; and a formal request has been made from tourism companies and hotels for the Municipal Video Surveillance project to be certified to the best world-class security and technology standards when delivered.

Assuming a commitment to undertake all necessary steps to implement the Safe City Project: La Antigua Guatemala, the cooperation of government institutions will continue to be sought so that the various initiatives for livability and citizen security in the public and private sectors will have the same spirit of integration, coordination, and assistance to the citizen based on a threefold approach: prevention of crime, violence control and refinement of the social environment.

______________________________

* The Safe City Program is in operation in Canada, Mexico and Israel, and is a community-based initiative that unites the police, businesses, residents, and city officials through a program to fully optimize safety and minimize robberies and other crimes in communities. By uniting businesses, residents, city officials and law enforcement in a plan to reduce crime and raise awareness, it helps communities create safer areas to live, work and shop. The keys to building success are partnerships and technical solutions.

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San Juan Comalapa, which has a population of around 35,000, celebrates its market days on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays, with Tuesday being the most important.  The town also has a baroque church, which is as beautiful as any located in La Antigua; and several small art galleries.

The first things that catch your eye when entering Comalapa are the walls enclosing the school and the cemetery. On these walls the people have painted large murals telling the story of the town and its citizens.  Upon seeing them, one realizes a couple of things: the great misfortunes they have suffered in the past decades and, most of all, the artists’ great talents.

In this colorful town, each family (Bal, Colaj, Cumes, Curruchiche, Chali, Chex, Miza, Mux, Nicho, Telón, Tuctuc, Perén, Yol, and others) has at least one representative in the arts which, for many, makes Comalapa a synonym for color and paint.

One of the first painters known both in Guatemala and abroad was Andrés Curruchich (1891 – 1969). His first painting was sold at a fair in 1930, and by 1960 he was already famous.  Nowadays, there are about 500 painters in San Juan Comalapa, and they primarily paint the daily life of the town and the life experiences and traditions of the indigenous culture, using a naïve or primitivist style.

Some of my favorite artists are those who were able to take the tradition of Comalapa’s art and use it as a foundation, and were then able to grow from that style, creating a new and unique style which is different from all the others.  Among those artists one can find Feliciano Bal, Paula Nicho and José Colaj.

San Juan Comalapa is, without a doubt, one of the main artistic centers in Guatemala.  One day, you should visit and there discover the talents shown by its inhabitants at any of the numerous art galleries in the town.

PAULA NICHO CUMEZ
Paula Nicho has become one of the most unique artists among Maya women in Guatemala.  Many of the themes she paints come from her dreams. Keeping the typical colors and proportions of the Comalapa primitivism, she has created an excellent fusion between primitivism and surrealism.

FELICIANO BAL
For Don Feliciano, every idea transforms into a canvas telling the same story he has been painting for 67 years: the history of the culture and tradition of indigenous people, landscapes and everyday events. During all these years, he has developed a unique style of chiaroscuro not common in Comalapa.  In addition, the colors he chooses for his paintings are quite different from the traditional ones.

JOSÉ COLAJ
José Colaj´s painting are very colorful, but also different from the traditional primitivist style.  His paintings represent abstract figures inspired by Guatemala, mostly in yellows, reds and oranges, outlined by black backgrounds and strokes which create intensity and brightness.

Through these colors and images, Colaj transmits the deep sense of being of the indigenous people and the hard life which they have experienced, without ethnic or ideological conflicts.  José Colaj is possibly one of the most recognized and appreciated of Comalapa’s current artists, and many of his paintings are exhibited at countless international shows.

Private day-trip tours of San Juan Comalapa & the archaeological site Iximche
• Description: Start your day on a scenic road towards Comalapa. After visiting the village and some of the local and most important ateliers, you’ll continue to Tecpán for lunch in a local smoke house. In the afternoon you’ll be introduced to ancient Mayan history at the archaeological site of Iximche.
• Price: USD 80 (Q625) per person. (Min. 2 people, max. 6 people.)
• Includes: Transportation, entrance fees, lunch (drinks not included) and an English speaking guide.
• Departure/Return: You’ll be picked up at your hotel in La Antigua at 8 AM and returned there after the trip.
• Reservations: Reservations are required. Call Roberto Uhlenbrock at 4003-9377 or 4016-9499, or email him at roberto@ativos-one.com.

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Ecofiltro has been named among the world’s Top 50 Small and Medium Enterprises in Innovation and Technology by infoDev.

Ecofiltro, S.A. is a social enterprise and a joint effort between Ecofiltro’s inventor, Guatemalan scientist Fernando Mazariegos, and entrepreneur Philip Wilson. Mr. Mazariegos invented Ecofiltro in 1981 as part of his research for the Central American Research and Industrial Technology Institute (ICAITI) to find an economical, ecological, efficient and easily understandable way to purify water. In 1993, the Guatemalan Family of the Americas Foundation (www.familiadelasamericas.org) initiated the project after having studied all water purification methods and conducting validation field studies indicating that use of an Ecofiltro, coupled with a strong educational program, reduced cases of diarrhea due to contaminated water by up to 50% in families. In 2003 and 2004, the World Bank awarded Ecofiltro with the Marketplace Award for its sustainability.

Today, the Ecofiltro water filtration system is being produced in La Antigua on a large scale, and more than 80,000 units have been distributed in the last five years. To date, Ecofiltro has benefitted more than half a million Guatemalans, especially in rural areas, and has significantly contributed to health improvement and gastrointestinal illness prevention in both children and adults. Additionally, Ecofiltro has helped to reduce the number of trees which previously would have been cut and used as firewood to boil water in rural communities.

infoDev (infodev.org) is an international association sponsored by the World Bank, whose strategic objective is to foster the growth of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) as well as to promote sustainable and inclusive economic growth, competitiveness and job creation. With funding from the government of Finland, infoDev held a competition to identify the Top 50 SMEs with the goal of broadening their international commercial connections. The winners of the competition will have increased access to funding and new technologies in markets beyond their national borders and will be participating in the 4th Global Forum on Innovation and Technology Entrepreneurship, being held in Helsinki, Finland, May 30th through June 3rd, where they will receive their awards and be introduced to mentors, angel investors, corporations, entrepreneurs and incubators, as well as competing for prizes and funding. Guatemala is the only Central American country that earned a place on the list, through the participation of Ecofiltro.

DID YOU KNOW?

Ecofiltro is manufactured from a mixture of clay, sawdust and sand. This process of filtration removes particles that scent, color and cloud water; a process similar to the natural filtration of water through layers of earth, giving us our natural springs, hence the fresh spring-like flavor of Ecofiltro water. In addition, the actual pore size of this type of filter is 0.6-0.3 microns, which is small enough to remove harmful particles such as E. coli bacteria. Ecofiltro is also coated in colloidal silver, a natural anti-bacterial.

For more information, email info@ecofiltro.com, or visit www.ecofiltro.com, or call 7934-6208 or 7934-6526.

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Just as there are many ways to eat chile peppers, there are even more varieties of them available here in Guatemala, with the cobanero or cahabonero being the most famous of them all.

Chile peppers have always been a staple item in Guatemalan cuisine. When the Spaniards arrived in the area now known as Guatemala, they encountered a native civilization whose diet consisted mainly of corn, beans and hot chile peppers. In fact, the hot chile pepper became one of the biggest vegetable exports from the Americas to Europe during the first years of the Conquest period. After all, wasn’t Christopher Columbus really trying to find a new route to the “Spice Islands”?

The Maya used chile peppers, not only as a condiment, but also as a sort of currency and as a form of marriage dowry. They even offered them to their deities as gifts and signs of gratitude.

But what makes chile peppers so damn hot? The chemical responsible for making your tongue burn, your lips swell and your taste buds go crazy when you bite into a habanero or diente de perro chile pepper is known as capsaicin, which in fact happens to be the active ingredient in pepper spray.

When consumed, the capsaicin from the chile peppers binds with pain receptors in the mouth and throat, sending a message to the brain indicating that the person has consumed something hot. The brain responds by increasing the heart rate, producing perspiration and releasing endorphins. The flood of endorphins is the reason why, after the burn, one generally finds oneself in a better mood than before the pain. By the way, this only happens in mammals.

The intensity of the burning sensation is measured in what are known as Scoville Heat Units (SHU). Sweet bell peppers, for example, rank at 0 SHUs, while the chile habanero ranks an impressive 300,000 SHUs. Contrary to popular belief, the habanero isn’t the most intense chile pepper available; the mother of all chiles is the naga jolokia, a variety of chile pepper from northeastern India, which ranks in at 1 million SHUs. That’s gotta be hot!

In Guatemala nowadays, most families in the countryside have more than one variety of chile pepper plant growing in their backyard. The chile pepper is definitely an integral part of Guatemalan culture and idiosyncrasy. They also play a significant role in Guatemala’s economy: according to official statistics, the commercial production of chile pepper crops generates at least 300,000 direct jobs every year.

“In times of hardship and scarcity, chile peppers are usually the only thing people eat with their tortillas,” stated Marta Antonieta Méndez, who has been running a food stall in the market in La Antigua for more than 29 years.

A recent study revealed that in Guatemala chile peppers are consumed more by low-income families than by the affluent sector of society. This means that one must go to popular food markets in order to find a decent variety of fresh or dried chile peppers.

In the mercado in La Antigua,  the most common varieties of chile peppers available are the chiltepe, diente de perro, serrano and guaque.  The chiltepe is considered by some to be the most tasty and aromatic of them all. Some even believe it is a gift from God himself. Trust me, if you’re feeling like trash after a night of heavy drinking, simply add a dozen mashed chiltepes to your caldo de gallina criolla and you have the best hangover cure know to mankind. It really is a “gift from God.”

So, the next time you’re eating at a Guatemalan table and ask to pass the hot sauce, remember that you are enjoying one of the oldest culinary ingredients and traditions of the Americas.

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History, tradition, tranquility, culture, and community are a few of the words one can use to describe this beautiful and authentic colonial masterpiece called La Antigua Guatemala. And today, for all those reasons and more, La Antigua is a popular tourist destination for national Guatemalan tourists and foreign tourists alike. Because of this, the people behind the program to promote the city and its identity as a cultural destination (Marca Ciudad) are working hard alongside the municipal and regional governments, INGUAT, and the National Council for the Protection of La Antigua Guatemala (Consejo Nacional para la Protección de La Antigua Guatemala or CNPAG) not only to maintain La Antigua as a unique World Heritage Site, but also to make the city and surrounding towns into a world-class destination, where tourists and citizens can enjoy a place that is secure, accessible, authentic, and tranquil. A place where one can be at peace while sitting under the shade of a tree in the park, walking down a cobblestoned street, or sipping coffee in a café.  A place to enjoy perfect weather and to breathe clean air, whether in the center of town, on a trail in the woods, climbing a volcano or walking along a river, without a worry.

This vision for a bright, successful and sustainable future first began in 2009 when over 200 Antigüeños (businesspeople, citizens, and visionaries) came together to form the organization Panchoy 50 and created a long-term vision where tourism is the economic mainstay of the area, and where thoughtful and well-planned development can benefit all the surrounding communities and improve the quality of life of all those involved in the great chain of services needed to support a tourist destination. Through this vision of sustainable development, and with the rediscovery, protection and promotion of local culture, the Panchoy Valley can be a place where artisans, musicians, writers, weavers, and traditional cuisine flourish.

But, every long-term goal needs a plan, the support of the community and of course, a first step. For many, the old town of La Antigua is the ideal place to begin, and a plan to transform this area (a radius of 800 meter extending from Central Park) into a pedestrian zone is underway. The zone would include the main city blocks, where most shops and restaurants reside and where most events take place, and, similar to weekends now on 5a. Avenida Norte (the Calle del Arco), vehicles would be barred and those on foot would have free range. Just imagine La Antigua’s city center free of the noise, fumes and hustle of cars and trucks! All that is needed now is action.

A steering committee is in place as a product of the successful Congress for the Protection and Development for La Antigua held late last year. The Mayor of La Antigua works with central government planning officials, INGUAT consultants and local businesspeople to review specific proposals. The projects now on the agenda include the large central wastewater system under construction, the conversion of the Hotel Nimajay site into a large visitor center with parking, a permanent pedestrian traffic program for 5a. Avenida Norte, and a plan to direct vehicles in a loop outside the perimeter of the old-city grid.

As with all good city plans, the support of local businesses and citizens – your support – is essential. If you would like to get involved, contact the private sector representative on the committee, Gerald Leech, at Casa del Jade. Jerry is not only well informed, but is also active in supporting what will ultimately be a Private/Public Corporation for the development of La Antigua.  Or, stop by the Mayor’s office and voice your opinion.

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Have you ever wondered why Italian cuisine is so popular the world over? While pondering this question, I suggest you do some research at Pecorino Ristorante!

Nonna Marianna di Stephano di Puleo is rightfully dancing the tarantella in heaven. Her grandson, Chef Christian Rossell is the owner/originator of Pecorino, Guatemala City’s successful Italian dining spot.

True to his nonna’s ethics, Chef Christian believes every aspect of his restaurant must satisfy all five of the senses. Along with the aromas and flavors from the kitchen, Pecorino’s ambiance, with a protected patio suggestive of relaxed dining beneath sunny skies in a Tuscan vineyard, has achieved just that.

Customer service is another aspect taken seriously. Staff members, including hosts, waiters, busboys, the twelve chefs, and even parking attendants, are friendly and helpful. You are likely to be greeted by Chef Christian himself or by his mother, Marie, who dines at Pecorino almost daily, reviewing the flowers, table settings, and décor. But don’t expect a right-out-of-The Godfather-type mama, no; Marie is a stylish and charming asset to this family affair.

For wine lovers, Pecorino will not disappoint. Their temperature-controlled wine cellar contains an amazing 830 wines from 11 countries.  A visit to the cellar and a mini-course in wines by Chef Christian is informative and encouraged.
The food, of course, is the top priority. Ten specials are offered each day and the menu changes every four months. Every dish is carefully prepared and meets the highest standards of quality, flavor, and presentation.

Antipasti include imported escargot in garlic butter with a hint of white wine, and funghi ripieni, a divine grouping of portobello mushrooms, prosciutto, ricotta, and black truffles. An extensive menu of fresh salads (the insalata Pecorino combines arugula with a sweet and tangy raspberry dressing) and flavorful soups is offered followed by the primi course of tasty pastas. For the secondi course, there is a wide selection of seafood such as basso Aldo, named for Pecorino’s Chef Aldo; it is a filet of robalo in a mouthwatering mushroom and artichoke heart sauce. There are numerous shrimp dishes including gamberi di Zacapa Centenario, grilled shrimp in a cream sauce with the kick of Guatemala’s world-famous rum. Intriguing chicken and beef dishes are also featured; you might try the 2.5 pound Omaha steak, bistecca alla florentina, or the osso bucco. Now, that’s Italian!

From the brick oven come pizzas to die for, but do save room for the dolci!  Desserts include such heavenly delights as panna cotta; a Culinary Awards-winning, rich, deep chocolate mousse; and take another spin around the dance floor, Nonna’s exquisite, creamy, ricotta- and chocolate-chip-filled cannoli recipe, which is Pecorino’s all-time best dessert!

Pecorino is located at 11 Calle 3-36, Zona 10, Ciudad de Guatemala, and is open Monday through Saturday from 12 PM to 1 AM and on Sunday from 12 PM to 6 PM. Reservations can be made at (502) 2360-3035.

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